Some More Fashion Business Terms

Add-on Sales

Additional purchases of items related to the customer's initial purchases made at the salesperson's suggestions, also known as added gravy.

Allied Products or Lines

Related merchandise grouped in the same category. Often found in the same area of the selling floor or area of the store as a technique to increase sales through associations by the customer or suggestion by the sales staff and as a convenience by the customer.

Assortment

Within a particular classificaiton of goods, the range of choice, such as price, color, size and style.

Best Buy

A high quality, competitively priced items often produced by a smaller markup.

Dans La Vent

"In the wind" - expression used to identify a fashion trend that is incoming or current.

Jazz

Flamboyant styling or accessorization

Knock-Off

A common practice among manufacturers where one copies another, usually to produce less expensive goods.

Misses

A size range from 4 through 18 in women's apparels, expressed in even number terms 4-6-8-10-12

Les Musts

A french expression that refers to particular styles, trends or items as being indispensable in a given season.

Projecting a Look

The identification of an item, style or mode of dressing that will have customer acceptance. eg. the Equestrian boot, the Edwardian look, punk dressing.

Size Range

Children wear is divided into
Children- size 3 to 6
Girls- size 7-14
Infants- Newborn, 3-36 months
Toddlers- one learning to walk, size 1 to 4
Juniors- 3-17
Misses- 4-20
Petites- Regular 2 to 26, Junior 3 to 15
Talls- 12 to 20
Women's - Half sizes 12 1/2 to 26 1/2
Straight Sizes- 36 to 52

Fashion Terms

Fashion

The custom or style of dressing that prevails among any group of persons. It is the style of the present , which may last for a year or two or a span of years.

Custom- It is conventional
Style- It has particular features currently popular
Prevails- Other styles may coexist
any group- there are multilevels of fashion
present- it is happening right now.


Style

Style is uniqueness and differentiation, on two separate levels.

Style in dress can be identified:

• By historical periods- Grecian, Roman, Victorian
• By ethnic Origin- Orintal, American, Indian, Mexican
• By profession or occupation- Aviator, military, hunter, monk, fisherman, astronaut, athlete, executive
• By an eclectic mix- Western Cowoy, Hawaiian, Hippie, preppy

Personal style is the way you handle fashion to make it yours.

Taste

Taste is critical judgement, discernment and appreciation of a style.

It can be good/bad, shoddy/exquisite, unobtrusive/flamboyant, objectionable/impeccable

Taste can be learnt.

Chic

It is the absence of the extraneous. It is a disciplined sophistication that is highly selective in combining the elements of fashion. It is pure simple and strong.

Elegance

It examplifies excellence and refinement, superiority to the most without flaw. It is sum total of fashion perfection.

Trendy

Trendiness generally deals with fads in their original form. Can be triggered by movies.

How to differentiate the kinds of fashion

Conventional Clothing- A mugful for the masses

• a timely major trend
• accepted as 'les musts' of the season
• familiar classic clothing
• no hassle to design, to sell or to buy
• neither controversial or daring
• comfortable to wear, safe as an investment
• can have a snob appeal

Upbeat- a teacup of newness

• Moderate fashion simulation
• tends to buy early
• seeks newness but not boldness
• responds to better prices
• viewed as the next generation of classics

Directional- a demitasse of selected brew

• the contemporary few
• attracted to innovation
• willing to pioneer an idea
• price is not a factor
• prefers to shop in speciality stores and boutiques
• purchases both known and unknown designer labels
• sought after as the consumer to cultivate

Fantasy- a soupcon s'il vous plait

• a fashion pipedream
• captivated by new untried directions
• ideas can be enchanting or outrageous
• generally initiated by the young
• spring from worldwide sub cultures
• provide the 'straws- in- the-winds' for fashion forecasters
• a few in number

The Deadbeats

• Considered fashion dropouts
• clothing is body covering rather than fashion statement
• leg behind in recognising a new trend
• fashion attitude is ' never touch the stuff'
• exist in substantial numbers
• affect primarily low to moderate price points.

My notes on Indian Fashion Designers

Abraham and Thakore

• The never had any shows


• Unlflinching Indianness


• Softer/easier clothing


• softer silhouettes- eastern


• Never very structured cloths


• Always worked with handlooms- small volume help


• Reinterpret the classics


• Favourite Accessory: Scarf


• Favourite fabrics: Cotton/ silk / all naturals

Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla

• Names Bachhan/ LN Mittal / Ambani


• Revitalise Chicken


• Experimented with organzas, chiffons, crepes, silk and Georgette


• Revitalise Zardozi( embroidery in Gold/ silver threads), Badla, Kamdani, Mukaish which is flatterned gold/ silver wire


• Revitalize Aree ( technique of pulling up the thread with each stitch)


• Style statement- India


• Favourite fashion element- embroidery


• Favourite Accessory- Jewellery

Aki Narula

• films- Dil Chahta Hai, Monsoon Wedding, Banti and Bubbly, Garam Masala


• "fashion is 75% styling and 25% design"


• " I am a very bad businessman"


• Evergreen style- white, blue jeans, black bandhgala and Puma sneakers

Anamika Khanna

• She tries to bring new textures to the cloth


• Instinctive fashion designer


• favourite silhouette- the wrap


• fabric- muslin and chiffon

Anshu

• Label " A small shop"


• Film " In Othello"


• " I dont really believe in this 'in' and 'out' business- In India we dont really wear our cloths in a rigid 'in' and 'out' manner"


• Style Statement- should relate to your life. should be easy


• Favourite Accessories- soft shoes without soles


• Fav. fabric- Handloom , silk/ cotton


• Definition of Evergreen style- Lungi, Sarong

Ashish Soni

• Label "Ikos:


• Style Statement: extreme simplicity, flawless lines


• "You need to have an understanding of why people like to wear what they wear"


• Uses no accessories- let the fabric speak for itself

JJ Valaya

• Niftian


• Mogul of Country's billion dollar trousseau market


• Czar of Indian Wedding Bazaar


• designed "Elizabeth"


• Style Statement: Black and white- the fashion full of India- tossed together like a salad


• 1993- used Kutch embroidery on very rough fabric- stitch/ blouses


• Not a great businessman


• Likes to age fabric/ embroideries to give them an antique feel


• Favourite Silhouette- Sari

Kiran Uttam Ghosh

• ready to wear Kimono Line


• "If they are copying your clothes- fine- if not- need to worry about it."


• Silhouettes- Kimono, Sari


• Fabric Favorite- Linen


• Manish Arora- 'fish fry'- Reebok


• Nift 1994


• "I am a very visual person. I keep registring ideas and keep forgetting them. I never jot down my idea. If I forget an idea I know it was'nt great"


• Favoruite Silhouette- 'Matador Jacket'


• definition of evergreen style- A sari

Monapali

• Revive traditional crafts like 'Kantha' 'Madhubani' 'Worli' 'Pattachitra' 'Alpna'


• Forte- combining block print with spary/ smudge print and hand print, cutting through layers of fabric to create a distinct pattern and tearing fabrics to give it a new dimension.


• Used 'Stitch Dye' technique- Japanese Dye technique


• Remember - 'Home is where heart is' , 'It is the east you can sell to the west'


• 'offer value for money'


• fabric- Natural

Monisha and Jaising

Neeta Lulla

• Films- Tamasha, Lamhe, Khuda Gawah, Devdas


• 'Queen of Indian Wear'


• Every thing is completely traditional


• Bad business person


• favourite fabric- Georgette

Puja Nayyar

• NIFT


• Idea- crushed and textured look, adaptability to any silhouette


• Favourite Accessories- Bags


• Naturals- Muslins, Linen, Cotton

Raghavendra Rathore

• about the old-world woody charm-smell of hunt/ rumble of hooves


• made a 555 anti pick pocket trouser

Rajesh Pratap Singh

• NIFT 1994


• Cant really shirt


• Best seller- white shirt


• Never make a certain style twice


• minimal silhouettes


• hates being photographed


• What is luxury- Choice


• Fabrics- Wool/ Muslin


• Evergreen Style- Bandhgala/ denim

Ranna Gill

• Nift-1991


• Trained at Donna Karan


• Morocco inspired kaftans


• Dazzling sequin-shimmer tunics and pants


• Best business ideas- Kaftans, sari, kurta and ponches


• No business mind


• fav. silhouette- classic blue jeans


• evergreen style- Sari

Ravi Bajaj

• Most Expensive Ready to Wear
• "They customers- you give them 10 choices- they want 20, you give them 20, they want 100"
• Known for using flower motif
• There is no such thing as 'in' or 'out' in fashion. Every thing is always 'in ' and everything is always aout
• Luxury- choice
• Fav. Garment- Fishtail evening gown
• fav. Accessory- Scarves

Rina Dhaka

• Goddess of Oomph clothing
• Gave us the Lycra Churidar
• Made kurta, blouse and Churidar from Lycra- fitting form- her forte
• fav. fashion element- her clothers soft of pull across the bust in a criss cross, and there are a lot bare backs
• Evergreen style- A sari

Ritu Beri

• Only Asian designer to have ever headed a French Fashion House, Scherrer
• 17 shows in Paris
• NIFT 1988
• Client- Madhuri Dixit, Bill Clinton, Nicole Kidman
• Style- " I make clothes that I see myself wearing'
• made her models look a little masculine
• Fav. silhouette- well fitted blue jeans

Ritu Kumar

• Knowledge of textile heritage
• Films- Bollywood/ hollywood, Road to Laddakh, Little Terrorist
• Always interested in Fabrics
• Likes- unstitched garments/ chunni/ classic cuts

Rocky S. (Rakesh Singhvi)

• Clients- Ritik, Shah Rukh, John Abrahim, Laara Dutta, Esha Deol, Priyanka Chopra
• Films- Koi Mil Gaya
• To nice to be a businessman
• fav. fabrics- lycra and georgette
• Evergreen style- blue jeans, white shirt

Rohit Bal

• First designer that understood the connection between revelry and fashion. He realised that it it in the clubs and pubs, discotheques, lounges and even private parties that trends are build
• Male models wear sindoor
• Collection of skirts of men
• Clients- Uma Thurman, Cindy Crawford, Pamela Anderson, Anna Kournikova
• Tied with Titan
• Started discotheque "decibel"

Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna

• Funky street smart clothers- leather jackets/ racy shirts
• Brand- H2O, Cue
• Do wedding clothes for men
• also do Kaftans
• fav. silhouette/ garments- G. Strings, oops, shirts, skirts

Sabyasachi Mukherjee

• NIFT 1999
• Large Bindis
• Thick Black Spectacles
• Not v. good businessman
• Fav. silhouette- A-line
• Def. of Evergreen- A starched cotton saree

SatyaPaul

• Creater of Trouser Sari- which comes prestitched and can simply be worn like a pair of pants
• Fav. silhouettes- Sari, Lungi

Shahab Duraji

• Superbly cut Jacets/ Pantsuits/ shirts and blouses
• "If you are not dressing for yourself you are doing it wrong, no matter how beautiful/ expensive the clothes are"
• " I dont consider myself a fashion designer. I am a stylist as I am constantly interpreting past and present styles trends for the future. It doesnt have to do with forecasting, but an equation with your sensibilities"

Shantnu and Nikhil Mehra

• Brand- Pearl
• Indian Cricketers donned their clothes, walked the runway in 2004 India Fashion Week

Sonali Mansingka

• Label- just urban
• Her jackets, T-shirts, blouses and pants allow career women to carry style to the office, and then, take her effortlessly to a party straight from work.
• fav. silhouette- the skirt
• fav. fabric- soft silk/mulmal

Suneet Verma

• Got to do the 125 outfits of LN Mittal's daughter's marriage
• not a very good businessman
• fav. silhouette- the wrap
• fav. fabric- stretch satin

Tarun Tahiliani

• 'Karl Lagerfeld of India'
• Wharton B-school graduate
• "Draped silhouettes are uniquely India"
• "Where in the world can you get a large woman buy a length of fabric for Rs. 1000 and look elegent. In West all your finely tailored pantsouts still make you look fat"
• "my fashion is all about wrapped, tucked and draped"
• created jewelled T-shirt with Mughal Motif
• Fav. fabric- Jersey

Varun Bahl

• NID graduate (evening course)
• A single sleeve shawl- can be slipped on like a jacket on one side and left flowing to be wrapped like a shawl on the other.
• silhouette- skirt
• accessory- scarf
• Evergreen style- sari

Wendell Rodricks

• Lives in a village in Goa
• No newspaper/ no TV ( no trend influence)
• no embroidery/ embellishment
• clothes flow/ drape
• visionnaire collection- details about fabric in Braille
• "I design 95% of every day clothes"
• designed first ever Kurta Shirt- No cuffs, shorter, no pockets, no buttons
  

Color Combinations

Sometimes it is very confusing to select different color combinations, once a given combination is given. For example your design manager says,"John, here is a piece of printed fabric, suggest me other colors which can be suited for this fabric". Fortunately there is a simple way. Please log on to
http://groups.google.com/group/the-fountainhead/browse_thread/thread/939d7bede69659c0/3b91f97abf2cc368#3b91f97abf2cc368

knitting categories

Here are some photographs of the knitwear categories. ( Courtesy Knitwear Deptt. notice board, NIFT, New Delhi)

Basic Silhouette

A silhouette refers to the outer shape of the garment. In this section we have discussed the basic silhouette that may be incorporated into the Indian silhouette.

A-line Silhouette
The most common silhouette that has the hem larger in proportion to the chest and waist measurement, thus giving the classic 'A' appearance.

Shift

This has a straight cylindrical shape to the garment achieved by giving same measurements to the chest, waist and hem. The effect is best achieved when overall the garment has a close fit. This silhouette works very well for the younger customers

Tent
This silhouette is achieved by flaring the garment from under the armhole. It is important for the garment to be close fitted at the bust.


Empire line
This refers to a panel dividing the garment horizontally into two panels below the bust.

Asymmetrical Silhouette

This kind of silhouette does not have a symmetrical form. It can be achieved by varying the true colours, panels, hemlines etc.

lever's law

The Blue Jeans

Origin of the Word Denim

Although conventional wisdom holds that the word is an Anglicised version of "serge de Nimes", a fabric typical of the French Mill Town of Nimes, the fact remains that srege is a wool blend often mixed with silk, while denim has always been cotton.

As for the word "jeans", it came from the cotton work pants worn by sailors from the port of Genoa, Italy, who were themselves known as "Genes"

Time Line

Mid 1800: Denim established itself as a reliable cloth for workwear

1853
Denim competed with duck canvas and won. It did'nt chafte, was hard to rip and the tough twill of its weave was still light enough to prevent a working men's muscle from sweating too much.

1873
Levi Strauss with Jacob Davis received US patent 139,121 for his riveted blue denim waist overalls

1891
Cone Mills Manufacturing Denim in North Carolina was formed

1904
The Hudson Overall Company (now known as Wrangler) was formed

1911
The H.D. Lee Mercantle Company of Salina Kankar began producing its own denim workwear

1926
Zippered flies were first introduced by Lee on their denim "cowboy pants"

1935
Levis Strauss introduced "Lady Levi's " their first jeans for women

1950
Denim Symbolises 'crime' 'daring' 'rebellion'

1960
Denim become a uniform. A pair of Levi's became part of the permanent collection of the Smithsonian Institution in Washington DC

63-65
Japan gave birth to three indigeneous denim labels: BF Jeans, Canton and Maruo HiHuko

1968
'Vogue' photographed the aristocratic Austrian Model Verustika in a Fourteen page spread on denim skirts

1972
Lee invented the leisure suit based on a five pocket knit jeans with a matching jacket

1981
American bought more jeans than ever before

1982
Saint Laurent said "I wish I had invented blue jeans"

1984
Bruce Springsteen reclaimed denim for the working class with his iconic 1984 album cover "Born in the USA"

1985
Stone Wash, Acid wash came into being

1986
Lee began selling its popular "storm rider " label with holes and tears already in place.

1990
Beltless jeans, parachute pants- jeans so loose fitting that they could almost lift you off the ground in a strong wind. The pockets were deep enough so you did'nt lose your cell phone while skateboarding.

In 2000 and Beyond
2002
Chanel's Karl Lagerfeld announced a new partnership with the fashion brand diesel for a range of jeans and jackets.

Songs involving Denim/Jeans

"Venus in Blue Jeans": Jimmy Clanton
"Oh very young": Cat Stevens: "Denim Blue fading up to the sky"
"Tiny Dancer": By Elton John ( "Blue Jean Baby"

Poetry by 1979 Neil Diamond

"...long as I can have you here with me,
I'd much rather be
Forever in blue jeans..."

Color Psychology

Black

Black is the color of authority and power. It is popular in fashion because it makes people appear thinner. It is also stylish and timeless. Black also implies submission. Prists wear black to signify submission to God. some fashion experts say a woman wearing black implies submission to men. Black outfits can also be overpowering, or make the wearer seem aloof or evil. Villains, such as Dracula, often wear black.

White

Brides wear white to symbolize innocence and purity. White reflects light and is considered a summer color. White is popular in decorating and in fashion because it is light neutral and goes with everything. However, white shows dirt and is therefore more difficult to keep clean than other colors. Doctors and Nurses wear white to imply sterlity.

Red

The most emotionally intense color, red stimulates a faster heartbeat and breathing. It is also the color of love. Red clothing gets noti ced and makes the wearer appear heavier. Since it is an extreme color, red clothing might not help people in negotiations or confrontations. Red cars are popular targets fro thieves. In decorating, red is usually used as an accent. Decorators say that red furniture should be perfect since it will attract attention.

The most romantic color, pink , is more tranquilizing. Sports teams sometimes paint the locker rooms used by opposing teams bright pink so their opponents will lose energy.

Blue

The color of the sky and the ocean, blue is one of the most popular colors. It causes the opposite reaction as red. Peaceful, tranquil blue causes the body to produce calming chemicals, so it is often used in bedrooms. Blue can also be cold and depressing. Fashion consultants recommend wearing blue to job interviews because it symbolizes loyalty. People are more productive in blue rooms. Studies showl weight lifters are able to handle heavier weights in blue gyms.

Green

Currently the most popular decorating color, green symbolizes nature. It is the easiest color on the eye and can improve vision. It is calming, refreshing color. People waiting to appear on TV sit in "green rooms" to relax. Hospitals often use green because it relaxes patients. Brides in the Middle Ages wore green to symbolize fertility. Dark green is masculine, conservative and implies wealth. However, seamstresses often refuse to use greeen thread on the eve of a fashion show for fear it will bring bad luck.

Purple

The color of royalty, purple connotes luxury, wealth, and sophistication. It is also feminine and romantic. However, because it is rare in nature, purple can also appear artificial.

Brown

Solid, reliable brown is the color of the earth and is abundant in nature. Light brown implies genuineness while dark brown is similar to wood or leather. Brown can also be sad and wistful. Men are more apt to say brown is one of their favourite colors.

Street Styles

Styles which start life on the street corner have a way of ending up on the back of top models on the world's most prestigious catwalks

Zooties:

late 30s : zoot suit- jazz

Weatern Style:

40s to 50s: Gave Jeans / Denim to the fashion world

Bikers

 40-50

Hipcats and Hipsters

 Invented by 'bebop' the music. Skin tight \, tight, scarf, black baret

Beats and Beatniks and Existentialists
very normal style. Those of us who today wear workshirts, sweatshirts and jeans do so in part because of a tradition of sartorial nonchalance which the beats began. - Lack of interest in apperance and dress. Indifference to style.

Beatnick- 1960

Teddy Boys
Jackets - single breasted, long, fitted velvet trimmed at necks and cuffs. Elvis Presley- "rock and roll"


Modernist
"Blues" 1950s 'Cool'

Cool School
Suits with no collars. No cuffs or cufflinks. Ties very thin and sharp

Folkies

Late 1950's
Brighter Colors- decorations

Rockabillies:
1954
Liberal use of white and pastel coloured fabrics and generous quantities of decoration ( including diamond shaped designs, piping, embroidery, visible stitching, added blocks of colors, inset seams in vivid, contrasting colours and extra wide shirt collars worn over the jacket labels. Trousers tended to be 'pegged'- roomy at the top but reduced to a minimum at the ankle. Shoes: snow white. In 1985, the style had shifted from immaculate suits and white shoes to denim jackets and jeans so worn and frayed that only sweat seemed to keep them from falling off.


La dolce Vita:

50-60
The sharp short jackets, and trim, tapered trousers which looked so right on a vespa signified a very carefree lighter approach to life.

Coffee- Bar Cowboys and Ton-up boys: 1963
Ton-up Boys
Derived from 'doing the ton'- slang for the rite of passage of exceeding 100 mph on your bike.
Whatever the jackets were made of, they were worn over a hand knitted aran sweater, with jeans and with a thick pair of white socks rolled over the top of chunky boots. The looks was embellished by with a dazzling white silk scarf.


Surfers: 1950s
Chose a style of dress that was appropriately loose and casual. Bold stripes and slashes of colour in a way which set them apart from the drab beats. Tanned skin, sunbleached hair and bare feet or minimal sandals.

Mods: 1958
Boy
Smoothed hair with burnt in parting, neat white Italian rounded collar shirt, short roman Jacket very tailored ( tow little vents, three buttons) no turn-up narrow trousers with 17-inch bottoms absolute max, pointed toe shoes and a white mac flying by his side.
Girl
Sports short hemlines, seamless stockings, pointed toe heeled stiletto shoes, crepe nylon rattling petticoat, short blazer jacket, hair done up in elfin style. face pale.



Rockers: Early 1960s: "Rock and roll"

Black leather jackets decorated with rows of metal studs and handpainted insignia, their wincle pickers as sharp as knife.

Rude Boys and Two Tone


Swinging London the Psychedelics:

66-67Very Different colors/ patters/ fabrics


Hippies : 1970
Head band/ long hair


Greasers: 1969
They wore jeans so soaked with oil that they positively glistened and so frayed that two pairs are often worn as one.

Funk: 1970s
"the harder they come"- "blatant in your face sexual possibilites of dress" eg. - enormous flares in the trouser legs served to foucs the eye on the contrasting ultratight fit around the crotch and bottom.


Glam: 1973
"sorrow" - matching hair, glittering, space-age outfits, and chunky platform shoes.


Rastafarians: 1980
Belts hats, tan, epaulletts, badges, scarves, wristbands made in the sacred colors of Ethiopian flags, red gold and green.


HeadBangers: 1970
"heavy metal"- Hippy style scruffiness (battered denim, long hair), psychedelic glitz, rocker style studded leather, poodle haircut, spandex jeans, leather, snakeskin, leopard prints and profusion of metal accessories.


Punks; 70-80
Coloured hair, sininster black leather, aggressive metal studs, perverse bondage trousers, day-glow artifice and a snarl. Bin-liners, Dr. Marten Boots, Ripped T-shirts, dog collars, safety pins, tight drain pipes

New Romantics
Soft, extravagant fabrics, elegance and finery

Raggamuffins: 1980- Jamaican Ragga
Ragga girls wore startling see-through or slashed outfits and their "betty-rider" shorts, which often revealed more than they concealed. At the same time, the men's distictive 'click-suits' made of an intricate patchwork of shreaded or stonewashed denim decorated with applique or rich brocade.

Technos and Cyberpunks: 1988
Like their ear-splitting, mechanical music, their clothing styles . resisted fashionable imitation. Dressed in anti radiation suits and marks, floak jackets and urban commando camouflage, the Technos look like something out of sci-fi disaster movie.



Goths:1981
A profusion of black velvets, lace, fishnets and leather tinged with scarlet or purple, accessoried with tightly laced corsets, gloves, precarious stilettos and silver jewelery depicting religion and occult themes. Hair was jet black, back combed to reach the stars. Face were pancaked to deathly white with eyes and lips slashed with blood-red or black

Casuals : 1983
British Football

Psychobilies: 1991
Tatooting - cartoon quiffs sometimes dyed green or purple and always thrust out far beyond the expectations of gravity. Aggressive studded belts and doc Martens, shredded bleached jeans and leather jackets painted with post nuclear holocaust imagery.

Pervs
Tightly laced corsets, stockings and suspenders and stiletto heels.