Some More Fashion Business Terms

Add-on Sales

Additional purchases of items related to the customer's initial purchases made at the salesperson's suggestions, also known as added gravy.

Allied Products or Lines

Related merchandise grouped in the same category. Often found in the same area of the selling floor or area of the store as a technique to increase sales through associations by the customer or suggestion by the sales staff and as a convenience by the customer.

Assortment

Within a particular classificaiton of goods, the range of choice, such as price, color, size and style.

Best Buy

A high quality, competitively priced items often produced by a smaller markup.

Dans La Vent

"In the wind" - expression used to identify a fashion trend that is incoming or current.

Jazz

Flamboyant styling or accessorization

Knock-Off

A common practice among manufacturers where one copies another, usually to produce less expensive goods.

Misses

A size range from 4 through 18 in women's apparels, expressed in even number terms 4-6-8-10-12

Les Musts

A french expression that refers to particular styles, trends or items as being indispensable in a given season.

Projecting a Look

The identification of an item, style or mode of dressing that will have customer acceptance. eg. the Equestrian boot, the Edwardian look, punk dressing.

Size Range

Children wear is divided into
Children- size 3 to 6
Girls- size 7-14
Infants- Newborn, 3-36 months
Toddlers- one learning to walk, size 1 to 4
Juniors- 3-17
Misses- 4-20
Petites- Regular 2 to 26, Junior 3 to 15
Talls- 12 to 20
Women's - Half sizes 12 1/2 to 26 1/2
Straight Sizes- 36 to 52

Fashion Terms

Fashion

The custom or style of dressing that prevails among any group of persons. It is the style of the present , which may last for a year or two or a span of years.

Custom- It is conventional
Style- It has particular features currently popular
Prevails- Other styles may coexist
any group- there are multilevels of fashion
present- it is happening right now.


Style

Style is uniqueness and differentiation, on two separate levels.

Style in dress can be identified:

• By historical periods- Grecian, Roman, Victorian
• By ethnic Origin- Orintal, American, Indian, Mexican
• By profession or occupation- Aviator, military, hunter, monk, fisherman, astronaut, athlete, executive
• By an eclectic mix- Western Cowoy, Hawaiian, Hippie, preppy

Personal style is the way you handle fashion to make it yours.

Taste

Taste is critical judgement, discernment and appreciation of a style.

It can be good/bad, shoddy/exquisite, unobtrusive/flamboyant, objectionable/impeccable

Taste can be learnt.

Chic

It is the absence of the extraneous. It is a disciplined sophistication that is highly selective in combining the elements of fashion. It is pure simple and strong.

Elegance

It examplifies excellence and refinement, superiority to the most without flaw. It is sum total of fashion perfection.

Trendy

Trendiness generally deals with fads in their original form. Can be triggered by movies.

How to differentiate the kinds of fashion

Conventional Clothing- A mugful for the masses

• a timely major trend
• accepted as 'les musts' of the season
• familiar classic clothing
• no hassle to design, to sell or to buy
• neither controversial or daring
• comfortable to wear, safe as an investment
• can have a snob appeal

Upbeat- a teacup of newness

• Moderate fashion simulation
• tends to buy early
• seeks newness but not boldness
• responds to better prices
• viewed as the next generation of classics

Directional- a demitasse of selected brew

• the contemporary few
• attracted to innovation
• willing to pioneer an idea
• price is not a factor
• prefers to shop in speciality stores and boutiques
• purchases both known and unknown designer labels
• sought after as the consumer to cultivate

Fantasy- a soupcon s'il vous plait

• a fashion pipedream
• captivated by new untried directions
• ideas can be enchanting or outrageous
• generally initiated by the young
• spring from worldwide sub cultures
• provide the 'straws- in- the-winds' for fashion forecasters
• a few in number

The Deadbeats

• Considered fashion dropouts
• clothing is body covering rather than fashion statement
• leg behind in recognising a new trend
• fashion attitude is ' never touch the stuff'
• exist in substantial numbers
• affect primarily low to moderate price points.

My notes on Indian Fashion Designers

Abraham and Thakore

• The never had any shows


• Unlflinching Indianness


• Softer/easier clothing


• softer silhouettes- eastern


• Never very structured cloths


• Always worked with handlooms- small volume help


• Reinterpret the classics


• Favourite Accessory: Scarf


• Favourite fabrics: Cotton/ silk / all naturals

Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla

• Names Bachhan/ LN Mittal / Ambani


• Revitalise Chicken


• Experimented with organzas, chiffons, crepes, silk and Georgette


• Revitalise Zardozi( embroidery in Gold/ silver threads), Badla, Kamdani, Mukaish which is flatterned gold/ silver wire


• Revitalize Aree ( technique of pulling up the thread with each stitch)


• Style statement- India


• Favourite fashion element- embroidery


• Favourite Accessory- Jewellery

Aki Narula

• films- Dil Chahta Hai, Monsoon Wedding, Banti and Bubbly, Garam Masala


• "fashion is 75% styling and 25% design"


• " I am a very bad businessman"


• Evergreen style- white, blue jeans, black bandhgala and Puma sneakers

Anamika Khanna

• She tries to bring new textures to the cloth


• Instinctive fashion designer


• favourite silhouette- the wrap


• fabric- muslin and chiffon

Anshu

• Label " A small shop"


• Film " In Othello"


• " I dont really believe in this 'in' and 'out' business- In India we dont really wear our cloths in a rigid 'in' and 'out' manner"


• Style Statement- should relate to your life. should be easy


• Favourite Accessories- soft shoes without soles


• Fav. fabric- Handloom , silk/ cotton


• Definition of Evergreen style- Lungi, Sarong

Ashish Soni

• Label "Ikos:


• Style Statement: extreme simplicity, flawless lines


• "You need to have an understanding of why people like to wear what they wear"


• Uses no accessories- let the fabric speak for itself

JJ Valaya

• Niftian


• Mogul of Country's billion dollar trousseau market


• Czar of Indian Wedding Bazaar


• designed "Elizabeth"


• Style Statement: Black and white- the fashion full of India- tossed together like a salad


• 1993- used Kutch embroidery on very rough fabric- stitch/ blouses


• Not a great businessman


• Likes to age fabric/ embroideries to give them an antique feel


• Favourite Silhouette- Sari

Kiran Uttam Ghosh

• ready to wear Kimono Line


• "If they are copying your clothes- fine- if not- need to worry about it."


• Silhouettes- Kimono, Sari


• Fabric Favorite- Linen


• Manish Arora- 'fish fry'- Reebok


• Nift 1994


• "I am a very visual person. I keep registring ideas and keep forgetting them. I never jot down my idea. If I forget an idea I know it was'nt great"


• Favoruite Silhouette- 'Matador Jacket'


• definition of evergreen style- A sari

Monapali

• Revive traditional crafts like 'Kantha' 'Madhubani' 'Worli' 'Pattachitra' 'Alpna'


• Forte- combining block print with spary/ smudge print and hand print, cutting through layers of fabric to create a distinct pattern and tearing fabrics to give it a new dimension.


• Used 'Stitch Dye' technique- Japanese Dye technique


• Remember - 'Home is where heart is' , 'It is the east you can sell to the west'


• 'offer value for money'


• fabric- Natural

Monisha and Jaising

Neeta Lulla

• Films- Tamasha, Lamhe, Khuda Gawah, Devdas


• 'Queen of Indian Wear'


• Every thing is completely traditional


• Bad business person


• favourite fabric- Georgette

Puja Nayyar

• NIFT


• Idea- crushed and textured look, adaptability to any silhouette


• Favourite Accessories- Bags


• Naturals- Muslins, Linen, Cotton

Raghavendra Rathore

• about the old-world woody charm-smell of hunt/ rumble of hooves


• made a 555 anti pick pocket trouser

Rajesh Pratap Singh

• NIFT 1994


• Cant really shirt


• Best seller- white shirt


• Never make a certain style twice


• minimal silhouettes


• hates being photographed


• What is luxury- Choice


• Fabrics- Wool/ Muslin


• Evergreen Style- Bandhgala/ denim

Ranna Gill

• Nift-1991


• Trained at Donna Karan


• Morocco inspired kaftans


• Dazzling sequin-shimmer tunics and pants


• Best business ideas- Kaftans, sari, kurta and ponches


• No business mind


• fav. silhouette- classic blue jeans


• evergreen style- Sari

Ravi Bajaj

• Most Expensive Ready to Wear
• "They customers- you give them 10 choices- they want 20, you give them 20, they want 100"
• Known for using flower motif
• There is no such thing as 'in' or 'out' in fashion. Every thing is always 'in ' and everything is always aout
• Luxury- choice
• Fav. Garment- Fishtail evening gown
• fav. Accessory- Scarves

Rina Dhaka

• Goddess of Oomph clothing
• Gave us the Lycra Churidar
• Made kurta, blouse and Churidar from Lycra- fitting form- her forte
• fav. fashion element- her clothers soft of pull across the bust in a criss cross, and there are a lot bare backs
• Evergreen style- A sari

Ritu Beri

• Only Asian designer to have ever headed a French Fashion House, Scherrer
• 17 shows in Paris
• NIFT 1988
• Client- Madhuri Dixit, Bill Clinton, Nicole Kidman
• Style- " I make clothes that I see myself wearing'
• made her models look a little masculine
• Fav. silhouette- well fitted blue jeans

Ritu Kumar

• Knowledge of textile heritage
• Films- Bollywood/ hollywood, Road to Laddakh, Little Terrorist
• Always interested in Fabrics
• Likes- unstitched garments/ chunni/ classic cuts

Rocky S. (Rakesh Singhvi)

• Clients- Ritik, Shah Rukh, John Abrahim, Laara Dutta, Esha Deol, Priyanka Chopra
• Films- Koi Mil Gaya
• To nice to be a businessman
• fav. fabrics- lycra and georgette
• Evergreen style- blue jeans, white shirt

Rohit Bal

• First designer that understood the connection between revelry and fashion. He realised that it it in the clubs and pubs, discotheques, lounges and even private parties that trends are build
• Male models wear sindoor
• Collection of skirts of men
• Clients- Uma Thurman, Cindy Crawford, Pamela Anderson, Anna Kournikova
• Tied with Titan
• Started discotheque "decibel"

Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna

• Funky street smart clothers- leather jackets/ racy shirts
• Brand- H2O, Cue
• Do wedding clothes for men
• also do Kaftans
• fav. silhouette/ garments- G. Strings, oops, shirts, skirts

Sabyasachi Mukherjee

• NIFT 1999
• Large Bindis
• Thick Black Spectacles
• Not v. good businessman
• Fav. silhouette- A-line
• Def. of Evergreen- A starched cotton saree

SatyaPaul

• Creater of Trouser Sari- which comes prestitched and can simply be worn like a pair of pants
• Fav. silhouettes- Sari, Lungi

Shahab Duraji

• Superbly cut Jacets/ Pantsuits/ shirts and blouses
• "If you are not dressing for yourself you are doing it wrong, no matter how beautiful/ expensive the clothes are"
• " I dont consider myself a fashion designer. I am a stylist as I am constantly interpreting past and present styles trends for the future. It doesnt have to do with forecasting, but an equation with your sensibilities"

Shantnu and Nikhil Mehra

• Brand- Pearl
• Indian Cricketers donned their clothes, walked the runway in 2004 India Fashion Week

Sonali Mansingka

• Label- just urban
• Her jackets, T-shirts, blouses and pants allow career women to carry style to the office, and then, take her effortlessly to a party straight from work.
• fav. silhouette- the skirt
• fav. fabric- soft silk/mulmal

Suneet Verma

• Got to do the 125 outfits of LN Mittal's daughter's marriage
• not a very good businessman
• fav. silhouette- the wrap
• fav. fabric- stretch satin

Tarun Tahiliani

• 'Karl Lagerfeld of India'
• Wharton B-school graduate
• "Draped silhouettes are uniquely India"
• "Where in the world can you get a large woman buy a length of fabric for Rs. 1000 and look elegent. In West all your finely tailored pantsouts still make you look fat"
• "my fashion is all about wrapped, tucked and draped"
• created jewelled T-shirt with Mughal Motif
• Fav. fabric- Jersey

Varun Bahl

• NID graduate (evening course)
• A single sleeve shawl- can be slipped on like a jacket on one side and left flowing to be wrapped like a shawl on the other.
• silhouette- skirt
• accessory- scarf
• Evergreen style- sari

Wendell Rodricks

• Lives in a village in Goa
• No newspaper/ no TV ( no trend influence)
• no embroidery/ embellishment
• clothes flow/ drape
• visionnaire collection- details about fabric in Braille
• "I design 95% of every day clothes"
• designed first ever Kurta Shirt- No cuffs, shorter, no pockets, no buttons